Rabbits are fantastic pets but still require dedication and daily care
You should consider all financial obligation such as vaccinations, veterinary care, feed and bedding
Rabbits can live up to 10 years so it is a long comittment
Are you willing to give the care and attention necessary and are your children old enough for a rabbit, they are not great pets for very young or nervous children
Contrary to popular belief, most rabbits don't actually like being picked up, they learn to accept it. So make sure that younger members of your family are educated in the correct care and handling of rabbits and most importantly know when to give them some peace
Give some thought to homing an older rabbit which will be less nervous and suffer less from stress. You will already be able to see its character and know exactly what size it is.
2. What breed of rabbit to buy?
There are many different breeds of rabbit, the most common being the dwarf lop or mini lop. Each breed has its own considerations as to temperament and size. You must research carefully to make sure you select the right breed for your situation. Remember a large breed needs larger accommodation and can cause some problems when boarding during holidays. The smallest breeds are not necessarily the most placid and some can be completely unsuitable for small children. A rabbit breeder will be able to give you an accurate picture of what their breeds are like and what size they grow to. Also you should be able to see the parents and often grandparents.
3. Choosing a Rabbit Breeder
There are many rabbit breeders throughout Scotland who are very responsible with their breeding programmes and have years and years of experience to advise you. You can find them by looking through the The Scottish Rabbit Club or British Rabbit Council. A good rabbit breeder will be willing to spend time with you trying to advice you of the correct breed for you. They will also ensure that their rabbits are properly weaned and of a suitable age to move home. This is NEVER under the age of 8 weeks and should be closer to 10 - 14weeks of age or older. Remember that the older the baby is the better it is for you. Tiny rabbits do look appealing but are at high risk of stress induced problems which can be fatal. An older baby rabbit is better equipped to deal with the stress of moving to a new and potentially noisy home.
4. Collecting Your New rabbit
When the time comes to collect your new pet you should take an appropriate carrying box. This can be a cardboard box providing it has adequate ventilation but investing in a proper carrier is ideal as you will need it throughout your rabbits life.
Your rabbit hutch should already be prepared in a quite sheltered area within your home, garden or shed.
The rabbit breeder should provide you with enough food for approximately two weeks feeding. This is ESSENTIAL as a sudden change in diet coupled with the stress of moving can prove fatal.
Listen to the rabbit breeder and note down any important details they tell you about the specific care of your rabbit.
When you get home DO NOT allow children to stress the new arrival. The rabbit should be given piece and quiet to adjust to its new surroundings. It is advisable to feed only some hay on the first day then introduce a little dry food the next day.
5. General Rabbit Care
Once your rabbit has settled in you can begin to handle it gently. Children should never be allowed to carry and walk around with young rabbits as they can become frightened and wriggly. Have your child seated before placing the rabbit on their lap securely until both become used to each other.
Gradually change diet, once the rabbit is settled, to any good brand complete food. Failure to make a gradual change over can be fatal.
Never feed a rabbit greens under the age of 12weeks, this includes grass. Once it has reached 12 weeks you can introduce a small amount of carrot gradually.
Never feed lettuce!
If your rabbit appears bloated or has diarrhea remove all food except hay and take it to the vet. These symptoms in a young rabbit can become very severe very quickly.
If using a bottle for drinking water, this is the most hygenic, regularly check the tip to make sure it is allowing water through. If your rabbit stops eating this is the first thing to check.
Your rabbit may have a ring on its leg, particularly if it has come from an exhibition stud. This should not cause your rabbit any problems but should be monitored to ensure it turns freely. If you are lucky enough to have a rung rabbit and you want to think about showing it. The Scottish Rabbit Club is the best place to start. http://www.scottish-rabbit-clubs.co.uk/index.htm
6. General Health Problems
Probably the most common problem in rabbits is mites or fleas. Mites can be picked up easily from the hay and is unavoidable in many cases. It is, however, easily treated using dyna-mite or a veterinary prescribed treatment.
Myxomatosis - this is a vile and cruel disease carried by any blood sucking insect such as fleas or midges. It is very important to vaccinate your rabbit annually or in some cases every six months.
VHD - a far less common disease in Scotland but still a risk. I personally would recommend all rabbits arc vaccinated for this anually.
Teeth - rabbits teeth grow continually which is normally no problem at all. They love to chew and apple branches are a perfect solution. Alternatively, there are many wooden chews available. occasionally rabbits develop dental malloclusion which occurs when the top and bottom teeth are misaligned allowing the teeth to grow irregularly. There are many causes for this, bad breeding, poor diet, gum disease, accident to name a few. If this does occur then regular trimming of the teeth should allow a normal life.
Runny Eyes - this can be linked to teeth problems and should be the first thing checked by your vet. It can also be due to conjunctivitus and drops should clear this up
diarrhea and Bloating - this is very serious particularly in young animals where it can become fatal very quickly. It is best to put the rabbit on a hay only diet for a while and probably a trip to the vet would be recommended.
7. Bonding Rabbits
Rabbits can be perfectly happy on their own if they are getting plenty of attention form their owners. However, two rabbits can be very successful and rewarding but there are NO gaurantees. There are several trains of thought as to the best pairings so i can only give you my opinion based on my experience. Two does can work very well if they have been siblings but there is still a possibility that they will begin to fight when they reach breeding age at about 6 months. Sometimes this will be only a minor upset and the two can remain happily together. Sometimes, however, they will have to be separated and this must be taken into consideration when buying them. A neutered male and female can be a lovely match and seem to work the best but there are some considerations. You will have to time the neutering right to ensure that there is not an unwanted pregnancy and this may mean separating for a short period. occasionally the female will continually mount the male which can irritate him. Two males whether neutered or entire is risky and i wouldn't recommend it.
